Introduction
A paver estimate is only as good as the installation behind it. The Paver Calculator gives you exact quantities — paver count, base, bedding, and joint sand — but the difference between a patio that lasts decades and one that settles in two seasons is in the execution. These are the practical, trade-tested tips that protect your materials investment.
Before You Order
- Measure a real paver, not the brochure. Nominal 200 mm pavers often measure 197–199 mm. On a 12 m² patio the drift is small; on a 100 m² driveway it changes the count. The estimating guide shows how to fold real dimensions into the formula.
- Buy all pavers from one batch. Color varies between production runs. Order the full quantity — including the waste allowance — in a single purchase so every unit comes from the same batch.
- Round to whole pallets. If the math says 642 and pallets hold 320, order 2 pallets (640)… actually order 3 — two pallets leaves you 2 short of the calculated need. Pallet pricing is cheaper per unit than loose pieces anyway.
- Stage materials close to the work. A cubic meter of crusher run weighs roughly 1.5 tonnes. Plan delivery access before the truck arrives.
Base Preparation: Where Patios Are Won or Lost
- Excavate to finished grade minus the full buildup. For a 60 mm paver + 25 mm bed + 100 mm base, dig 185 mm below finished height — then compact the exposed subgrade before placing any aggregate.
- Compact in lifts. Never place 200 mm of base and compact once. Place in 75–100 mm lifts, compacting each one — this is what achieves the density the compaction factor assumes.
- Slope for drainage. Grade the base at roughly 1–2% (10–20 mm per meter) away from buildings. Standing water under pavers is the fastest route to settlement.
- Lay geotextile on soft soils. A separation fabric between subgrade and base stops the aggregate from migrating into clay or silt — cheap insurance on poor soils.
- Don’t walk on screeded bedding. Screed the 25 mm sand bed, lay pavers from the laid surface forward, and never step on the prepared bed — footprints become low spots.
Laying and Finishing
- Maintain consistent joint gaps. 2–5 mm joints, kept uniform, are what let the sand lock the field together. Wandering joints telegraph across the whole patio.
- Install edge restraints before the final compaction. Pavers interlock as a system — without a fixed edge, the field spreads under load. Concrete haunching or spiked plastic edging both work.
- Compact the pavers, then sand, then compact again. A plate compactor with a rubber pad seats the pavers into the bedding, then sweep joint sand in, then compact once more to vibrate sand into the joints.
- Keep polymeric sand dry until set. Sweep it in on a dry day, compact, sweep again, then mist lightly to activate. Rain during application washes the binder out — check the forecast and the project checklist before you start.
- Cut with a wet saw for clean edges. Angle grinders work but throw dust; a wet saw gives cleaner cuts and is worth the rental on any job with more than a handful of cuts.
Ordering and Logistics
- Combine aggregate deliveries. Base aggregate and bedding sand from the same yard in one load saves a delivery fee — see the cost guide for how delivery charges stack up.
- Protect the pile. A tarp over bedding sand keeps it dry and screedable; wet sand clumps and won’t screed to a true 25 mm.
- Keep spare pavers. After the job, store 5–10 leftover units. A settled or stained paver can be lifted and replaced in minutes — if you have a matching unit.
Related Guides
- Complete Guide — the full estimating walkthrough.
- Common Mistakes — the errors these tips prevent.
- Paver Project Checklist — everything to verify before materials arrive.
- Paver Material Guide — choosing pavers, base, and sand.
- DIY vs Pro — when to hire the execution out.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most important step in a paver installation?
Base preparation. A properly excavated, graded, and compacted base in lifts determines whether the pavement stays level for decades. Pavers on a thin or uncompacted base settle regardless of paver quality.
Should I compact the bedding sand layer?
No — the 25 mm bedding layer is screeded loose and only lightly seated by the pavers and final plate compaction. Pre-compacting the bedding makes it uneven and defeats the screeding.
How much slope do pavers need for drainage?
Around 1–2% (10–20 mm per meter, or about 1/8–1/4 in per foot) away from buildings and toward drainage. Grade the base to this slope before screeding the bedding.
Can I lay pavers in the rain?
Wet bedding sand won’t screed properly, and polymeric joint sand must be applied dry. Wait for dry conditions — laying in rain is one of the fastest ways to a failed installation.
Do I really need edge restraints?
Yes. Interlocking pavers rely on a fixed edge to hold the field together under load. Without restraint, the outer rows migrate and the whole field loosens.
How many spare pavers should I keep?
Keep 5–10 leftover units from the same batch after the job. Individual pavers can be lifted and replaced, but only with matching stock.
Get Your Number
Good execution starts with right-sized quantities — no tips rescue an order that’s 30% short on base aggregate. Run your dimensions through the Paver Calculator, apply the waste and compaction figures from the formula guide, and walk the checklist before the delivery truck arrives. The jobs that look effortless afterward are the ones where the base work was done properly and nobody rushed the weather gates.
Disclaimer: Calculator results are planning estimates based on the dimensions you enter. Installation practices vary with soil, climate, and load — verify quantities with your supplier and consult a licensed professional or your local building authority for structural, drainage, or code-related decisions.
